Breakdown – Mexican Style!

From reading my articles and blog postings you probably have come to the conclusion that we really do get into some interesting situations.  We also have phenomenal luck and that was how today worked out.  We had an excursion today, for Tom and Mall Boyd’s last day, to the Friday market of Ocotlan (you remember, the place where Amanda had her purse slashed and money stolen) with our wonderful amigo and guide/driver Sebastian.  No, we did not have a theft.  It was a great day and one wonderful event made it exceptional, but that will be in a subsequent posting.

When we were on our way back home we smelled something burning, and we just assumed it was one of the taxis next to us on the very crowded road as we entered Oaxaca.  We had noticed that in the afternoon our air conditioning was not putting out cold air.  Just past the airport road and near the new Walmart, we all noticed that smoke was coming up from under our hood. I don’t mean steam, like from an overheating radiator; I mean smoke from something really burning.  Needless to say, this requires crossing three lanes of traffic to get to the curb, and you know—with our smoke everyone seemed to let us get by.  This is unusual courtesy from an Oaxacan driver!

Sebastian and Tom Boyd get out of the van, open the hood, and inspect the engine.  Now I am not sure either of these gentlemen knows the difference between an engine and a tail pipe, but they diagnose the problem.  The air conditioning motor has overheated, probably from lack of coolant and is busily proceeding to burn up the air conditioning motor belt.  Neither one of them knows whether this motor runs only the air conditioning, or if other things work off of it.  This is when the “Miracle de Sebastian Pablo Villa” occurs.  Humm, maybe you need to know that Sebastian’s full name is Sebastian Pablo Villa.

We are all at this point baking in the van, and Sebastian gets on his cell phone.  He comes back after a couple of calls and tells us “No Problemo!”  It turns out that Sebastian’s wife’s cousin has an automobile mechanic business about five minutes away.  He is on the way.  The cousin also owns and provides drivers for three taxis so we will have transportation.  A few minutes later the cousin with his tool box, and a cab arrive.  We are all bundled into the taxi, the driver is given instructions on finding the casa, Sebastian stays behind with the van and cousin, and we are off.

So far on this trip to Mexico, we had not used a cab.  This taxi was something to behold, and I am sure not much different from the thousands of taxis we have seen in Oaxaca.  It appeared that the only working seat belt was the drivers.  The front passenger seat had a seat belt, but no receptacle in which to lock it.  I assume, because all of the bright sunny weather in Oaxaca, all the cabs seem to have a plastic darkener over the upper third of the front windshield.  On the outside of the visor there is usually painted the name of the neighborhood that the taxi works in.  It is good that the drivers are short so they can see out.  Tom Boyd was in the right front and he couldn’t see out at all. 

We have suspected that because of the way the taxis drive it is tough to keep them at a high standard of mechanical fitness.  Our cab, when driving down the street rattled so loud I was surprised that he could hear and talk to his dispatcher.  But he was multi-dexterous.  He was listening to Mexican music, talking to the dispatcher, on his cell phone, and asking me if I spoke Spanish, all at the same time.  We were all hoping that the cross hanging from the rear view mirror really would provide us with good luck.  You know what, it did!  The cell phone call was from Sebastian, and that the van was fixed (by cutting the air conditioning motor belt), and he was just a block or two behind us. 

Our “savior” taxi driver pulled over, Sebastian drove up, we transferred all our stuff back into the van, and we were again all on our way to the casa.  We are now discussing adopting Sebastian.  And I thought this was just going to be an ordinary second visit to Ocotlan.  Life is just a lot of surprises and miracles – and the wonder of the Mexican extended family.

 

 

Ocotlan Friday Market

 

Ocotlan Friday Market

 

Octolan Church

 

Quirky Living Note

 

The little scrubby sticks at the kitchen sink – At our casa the ladies, and the men washing dishes, have been using the little bundle of sticks to clean out the pots and pans.  Everyone seems to think this little local item is the greatest thing since sliced bread.  It consists of some very strong sticks held together with wire.  One day when going to the Etla Market day, it was decided we needed to find and buy these items.  I was the daily hero as I spotted them in a bunch of things in the items being sold by a native lady when entering  the mercado.  Mall bought the kind with rough points at both ends and Mary Ann got the one with the string so it would hang from a hook (see photo below).  Who knows, maybe we can patent them and market them all over the U.S.  Sebastian advises us these are called escobetas.  The English-Spanish dictionary defines this as a whiskbroom -  a small short-handed broom with stiff bristles, used to clean small areas.

 

Escobetas

 

Supermercado Comparisons

As we live here in Oaxaca longer, we have found our way to all of the big box grocery stores.  It is interesting to see what each offers, their pricing, the layout and ease of getting around.  We started out with Bodega Aurrera, on the recommendation of Florencio, probably because it was the nearest to us.  Since then we have been to a second Bodega Aurrera at Plaza Bella, a Soriana on Universidad Avenue, and a Chedraui just as you start into the central zone from our carretara. Here are a few comments and opinions about each of them.

 

This is an overseas branch of Wal-Mart.  It is probably the lowest price and modest market leader in Oaxaca.  Wal-Mart also has a store near the airport under the Wal-Mart name. The Bodega on the north highway is somewhat difficult to get in and appears to have been there for some time.  It is located a U shaped strip mall, and the access is somewhat exciting.  The prices are the lowest and they seem to have some of everything.  All of the supermarkets are combination grocery and dry goods stores (ala Fred Meyer) where you are required to walk through all the non food items to get to the grocery areas. The stores also have a lot more non food products than food.

The Bodega store at Plaza Bella is much newer, but similar layout and is located in a brand new mall, which includes a Cineplex and food court that has a McDonalds. It has about the same line of items as the Bodega close to home, but appears to be a little neater and cleaner.

 

We were familiar with Soriana because it was our favorite shopping store in San Miguel de Allende.  When we visited the Soriana in Oaxaca we were somewhat disappointed.  The food sections were much more limited and items carried the same as at the Bodega.  The prices were higher than the Bodega stores and it had the customer unfriendly aspect of pay parking (see previous post).  For our casa location it is also inconvenient to get to.  It does have the advantage of being located with many other big box stores so you can shop for a lot of different stuff.  There is also a Sam’s Club down the street if you are a member of the Wal-Mart discounter Costco competitor.

Chedraui is probably the newest competitor in the supermercado competition.  It has easy access north or south from one way streets and has very convenient (and cool) covered parking on the ground level. The also must have a deal with the city government, as their name appears on the large traffic direction signs. The shopping level is above the parking with escalator access for moving your shopping basket to the parking lot.  Although their logo touts low prices, we felt that it was the most expensive when comparing item to item with Bodega.  It is however very bright and the aisles are the most spacious of all the supermercados. This store has a greater variety of food, Mary Ann was actually able to fine saran wrap.  If you don’t mind paying a bit more, it is clearly the most pleasant place to shop. 

Mary Ann has decided to get some items either at Bodega or Chedraui, as each have things that one or the other may not have.  She does not think the fruit and vegetables in any of them are up to the freshness and quality of the mercados, so they will still get our business.  I would note that all three of the big box grocery stores accept credit cards along with your ID.  One or more seem to have loyalty card programs but they are a mystery to me.

Quirky Living Note

 

Refrigeration – We are suspecting that not a lot of the natives have significant refrigeration in their homes.  The tipoff is that in the grocery stores (supermercados) there is very little frozen food available.  With all the little corner grocery stores in the villages, that are mom and pop operations, daily buying must be the rule.

The Beckoning of the Open Road

Well, not quite the “open” road, but there surely were a few roads heading north towards Mexico City.  In order to find new adventures I scour the two guide books I have been using, one called Viva Oaxaca and the other the Moon Oaxaca book.  The first book is a bit strange as to its organization, so Moon Oaxaca usually is more helpful.  We bought the most recent edition as a kindle download from Amazon, and it works great on the iPad. 

So I find that about 10 km north of us and to the east of Villa de Etla, there is a village named San Agustín Etla, and a suburb of the village called Vista Hermosa.  Now this should be a no brainer as it shows the road going off to the east just before Villa de Etla and the guide books says it is a paved road.  We felt very smug (our downfall) when we spotted a very large sign over the highway saying San Agustín Etla and with an arrow to the right.  Off we go and surprisingly we come (on the nice paved road with a sign saying 4 km to San Agustín) to a very high gate and fence with a guard which appears to be some sort of police academy.  Interesting, but this was not our destination!  We turn around and return to the main highway.

About a mile further north (this is the free road to Mexico City) we see a small sign pointing to Vista Hermosa.  Nothing ventured – nothing gained I always say.  It was an interesting winding road up into the hills adjacent to the mountains. Note the interesting 10 foot divided highway in the photo below. The higher valley was obviously well watered as the trees are very green and there are some great casas with actual green lawns. I wander around what must be Vista Hermosa, and its church and find another road making a circle around the edge of the hill and actually find San Agustín Etla (the clue:  Taxis that say San Agustín).  This area is quite a change from the usual valley village due to all the green trees and lush growth.  We even spot a golf course behind one new development. 

The guidebook had advised the area was noted for its paper handicrafts and a famous craftsman of the same.  We did not actually find any of that and I am very sure we were the only gringos within five miles.  Later, I found out one of the neighbor couples was there at the same time and found the paper crafts. Well, we easily can go up there again.  With a pleasant drive down into the lower valley we come to the carretara.  Needless to say there was not a sign to be seen at that intersection saying that was the road to San Agustín.  We then drove several miles to the north just for fun.  We went beyond where the carretara became a two lane on the free road to Mexico City. 

Upon the return we stopped in Villa de Etla and bought a barbecued roasted chicken from a Pollo Rosteceria for dinner.  All this exploring can make you hungry!

 

The green view of Vista Hermosa

 

The church at Vista Hermosa

 

Quirky Living Note

 

Two squares or three – In the Casa de Artesanias in downtown Oaxaca, the sanitarios has a sign that one square of toilet paper are 3 pesos, two squares are 4 pesos, and three squares are 5 pesos.  I have to presume that certain male functions are free.  Mary Ann, in one of her rare frugal events went for only two, knowing that she had tissue paper in her purse.  What a woman!

 

 

The Cause of our Detour

For a little exercise (I know, I know, a bit shocking for me), this morning we walked down to Casa Raab (the nearby B&B) and then down to the alleged construction project that caused and continues to cause our detour to the casa.  You will recall our night time search for the casa when we first arrived.  If we had been able to get to the Casa Raab sign, we would have been home free as there is a left turn to El Studio and it is about 100 yards off the al Seminario road.

Florencio estimated the road would reopen within a week.  Whoo-ha!  At the obstruction, it is really just a house being built and their having dumped rocks, sand, and removed rubble on the road.  Maybe at some previous time they dug up the road to put in or access a pipe but there is no ditch now.  We are estimating that it would take a decent front loader operator about 10 minutes to clear the road.  A few days ago we noticed that the detour signs were now laminated.  What does that tell you about when the road will reopen?

I have heard speculation from some of the folks around here that they think that the house is being built by a local city official and no one wants to confront him about the obstruction.  If that is the truth he should be impeached or removed from office, as it has caused a tremendous inconvenience for a lot of people up the hill, who have to use the dirt road detour and fording the creek to get to and from the city.  It adds about 15 minutes to the drive. Oh well, this is Mexico, and it can be done manaña.  I will keep you informed if it should actually reopen while we are here at El Studio.

News Alert!!!  The road was opened on February 14.  I heard the good news from my neighbor and the tip off may have been the daytime fireworks, and an official ribbon cutting, I’m sure.  My first blog about the detour was as of January 28.  Florencio was not too far off.  He said it would be a week and it was 18 days.  For “On Mexican Time” that is not too bad.  The new road has a few topes but it is quicker and less dusty than the detour via the creek fording.

 

The Cause!

 

Quirky Living Note

 

Cell phone towers are now all over the world.  When viewing the one shown in the photo below in Villa de Etla, I could not help but think of my friend in Chelan, Denise Lorenz, who is a cell phone tower contractor.  Maybe we should start putting palm trees, or maybe a Douglas fir, on our towers.

 

 

You can’t just lay around the pool all day!

At least I can’t.  You can see our very nice pool in the photo below, with our casa in the background.  My propensity to be a non pool and non beach guy is why we end up in mountainous places like Oaxaca and San Miguel de Allende.  Oaxaca is at 5100 feet and I would estimate our casa is 2 or 3 hundred feet higher than that.  We do go to beach places and have enjoyed our stays in Cabo San Lucas, Puerto Vallarta, and Mazatlan, but I am good on the beach for about 30 minutes at a time. 

Then you need to be doing something!  Explore, go for a drive, check out new markets, visit archeological sites, or even go shopping.  Sometimes in my writings I give Mary Ann a bad time about being the world’s greatest shopper.  But, I even sometimes like to shop for interesting items, art objects and handicrafts.  Our selections (usually when expensive) are most often joint decisions.  When I tire of shopping, I just find a nice place in the shade to sit down, and then read if I have a book, or people watch, which is a great pastime. 

Here at El Studio, the pool is more than just a place to swim.  In the evening it becomes a social area for all the people staying in the compound, as it is a joint pool for all the casas and casitas.  You grab a beer or other adult drink of choice and wander down to the pool side.  I have, of course, learned all of my conversational skills from Les Cooper, so I am willing to talk to anyone, about anything.  My legal training tends to encourage me to ask questions, sometimes to Mary Ann’s embarrassment, as I do not fear asking personal questions.

The pool social life has been fun.  We have met fashion designers who were with Adele, from Oregon, who is their boss.  Bill & Mary, who own one of the casa’s, are from Chicago and he is a retired architect.  They arrived here on their first visit at the time of the Oaxacan protests in 2006.  They bought their casa in the month (December) that the protests ended. That discussion, and its continuing consequences for Oaxaca, has come up several times. 

Last night a new couple arrived who are from Anacortes, Washington where they house-sit a home on the beach (what a deal, they have been house-sitting for over two years).  Penny and Phil spend much of their life sailing and have owned 36 foot sailing catamarans in exotic locations around the world.  Presently, their boat is moored in Anacortes in Washington State’s San Juan islands, and they are concentrating their sailing in British Columbia and Alaska waters. This afternoon we met Paul and Stephanie, and their 1 ½ year old.  He works for Canadian public radio in Baffin Island.  Boy, do they need the warm weather!  I can’t wait for more visitors to show up.  Maybe they could even be from Leavenworth or Wenatchee!

 

The pool with our casa in the background

 

Quirky Living Note

 

I like to get the local news – As a regular user of the internet, I try to find a newspaper written in English in the countries we visit.  Oaxaca, does not seem to have such a functioning entity, so I am using a Mexico City newspaper (ironically called The News) for my Mexican news.  You can access it at: http://www.thenews.com.mx/.

 

                                                                                 

Atzompa? Surely you have heard of it!

Well, maybe you know this village better by its proper name Santa Maria Atzompa.  This was our destination for today.  With the family back in Seattle we did not want to have withdrawals for not having enough activity.  To start with though, we definitely had to get the car washed.  It was getting to the point that we might have lost it because if was so similar to the color of the ground.

Back on avenue Seminario there is a lava auto which looked new and clean.  Sebastian confirmed later that they have only been open for a couple of weeks.  So we drive in and are the first customer of the day.  For all I know, we were their first customer ever.  Julio (we all had to meet each other and give our names) goes to work on the VW Jetta.  Pressure wash, soap it, wash again, spray the wheels, make them black, take out the floor mats and brush, dry the car, re-wash the windows, vacuum it out and I thought this was going to turn into a complete detailing, rather than a wash.  All the time he was working he was quizzing us about sports in Seattle. 

Finally his father comes by and does some finishing.  We ask how much and it was 40 pesos ($3.14).  They point out that we had a scrape or paint on one of the headlights.  We figured that would be enough to have the car condemned when returning it to the rental agency.  They said they would remove it for 20 pesos, bringing the total to 60 pesos ($4.72).  The whole washing was a beautiful job and it took 40 minutes.  Mary Ann feels so guilty about paying so little, when the locals work so hard, she paid a total of 100 pesos.  We expect super treatment when we return.

So we wander off to Atzompa, taking a short cut, because there is a big sign on the carretara.  We wander around the back streets of another village, the signs disappear, but I know I am going in the general direction of the village.  Soon, one of our travel miracles occurs and we turn onto a street and a huge sign says “Bienvenidos a Santa Maria Atzompa”.  Of course we have arrived just like I planned it!

So why are we in Atzompa at all?  Ah, you should know by now.  This is another craft village of families famous for a distinctive kind of pottery.  The Moon Oaxaca guide book (which we now have a download on our Kindle and iPad, of course) says the modern Atzompans (as compared with the ancient ones as this is on the edge of the Monte Albán archeological complex) are “busy producing their distinctive pottery creations-fetching emerald green-glazed cooking pots, bowls, baking dishes, plates and more-famous all over Mexico and the world.”

Mary Ann thinks this is just super and we wander the aisles of the Mercado de Artesanias. Now, this is not a problem, as we are the only people there, other than staff.  It is obviously a quiet Monday.  And then we buy – wall pots, hanging dark pottery things, etc.  We end up spending $18 and I think the bag weighs 18 pounds.  Hmmm, where is the shipping place?

 

"The" car wash

 

It no longer looks like dirt!

 

Mary Ann at the Atzompa mercado de artesanias

 

Churros – Yum!

Churros are kind of like a Mexican donut.  Deep fried heaven.  We first became aware of this delicacy at a coffee restaurant in San Miguel de Allende.  I had seen a couple of churro stands in the mercados when we had been wandering about.  They are kind of a street food here in Oaxaca.  I noticed in the parking lot of the Bodega Aurrera that there was a permanent churros covered stand, but on previous visits it was not open.

Today was different and I sprung for three churros.  Of course one for Mary Ann and two for me.  They are best eaten hot, and come with chocolate on the top if you want.  We were just going into the supermarket, so we decided to wait until later.  Probably, should have eaten them right then, but they were pretty good cold, as a snack in the afternoon.  Dough is squeezed from a ridged tube and fried and the result sprinkled with sugar and sometimes cinnamon; with luck, you may be able to dip them in chocolate. Oh man.  Sinful temptations!

 

Churros!