In Oaxaca, upon entry to any market, no matter how small or
large, you can’t avoid the little native ladies selling chapulines. The delicacy (I assume for those who have an
addicted taste for them) is piled into tall piles and come, apparently in
different flavors and sizes. What are
they, you ask? Fried grasshoppers, which
have the appearance, as you might expect, of dead bugs. The sales ladies are more than happy to offer
you samples as you pass by, so that you will learn of their excellent taste and
crunchy texture.
Today we were in the downtown Juarez Mercado and I realized
that I had not mentioned chapulines in any of my articles, although the product
is so persuasive in Oaxaca. Have I tried
them yet? Are you crazy, I am a very
bland and fearful eater. I will stick
with peanuts, which by the way, are very good in bulk here, although you
sometimes get some that are very, very salty.
At the beginning of my blog I may have made a deprecating comment about
the local coffee. I was reading today
about an excellent coffee shop named La Antigua on Reforma Street, behind the
Santo Domingo church. They grow and
roast their own Oaxacan coffee and we now have a pound of their Pluma Oaxaca
beans. They must export it to the U.S.
as it has a stamp on it saying “USDA Organic.”
Can’t beat that! I will report
down the line on how it turns out.
They are collected only at certain times of year
(from their hatching in early May through the late summer/early autumn). After
being thoroughly cleaned and washed, they are toasted on a comal
(clay cooking surface) with garlic, lime juice and salt containing extract of agave worms, lending a
sour-spicy-salty taste to the finished product. Sometimes the grasshoppers are
also toasted with chili, although it can be used to cover up for stale
chapulines.
One of the regions of Mexico where chapulines are
most widely consumed is Oaxaca, where they are sold as snacks at local sports events and
are becoming a revival among foodies.
It's debated how long Chapulines have been a food source in Oaxaca.
There is one reference to grasshoppers that are eaten in early records of the
Spanish conquest, in early to mid 16th century.
I think I will let Bob White or Tom Boyd try them next week
when they join us here at the casa. They
are surely more adventuresome eaters than I am.
One other event we experienced today was a walkthrough of the Quinta
Real Hotel (formerly the Camino Real), which is one of the top hotels here in
Oaxaca. It is right behind the Santo
Domingo church and is a converted and restored convent. It is very beautiful and the pricing on
TripAdvisor reflects that, with starting prices of $200+ per night.
Quirky Living
Note
School
Kids – We see thousands of school children in Oaxaca, as the first session of
the day ends about 1 p.m. when we are often moving about the city. The thing that is amazing is not that they
all wear uniforms with colors and logos depicting their school, but that they
are so overdressed for the temperature here.
Girls are most often wearing blouses, wool sweaters, wool skirts, and
white knee high stockiSngs. They
obviously are not bothered by the 90 degree heat. The boys will often have jackets or sweaters
over polo shirts and sweat pants or black wool trousers.
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